More jobs are coming back to exhausted domestic production centres. Despite that, foreign total production costs are still low. However, more work is now available to domestic production centres for weaving, knitting, dyeing and sewing. Why is this so?

Why are apparel businesses returning to Japan despite having once abandoned Japan and shifted their bases overseas to places like China and Vietnam? The answer is simple: China is risky. For instance, they want to avoid excessive concentration and the surge of labor costs in China. In addition, they are now establishing domestic bases in order to respond to changing needs quickly. In the end, it comes down to cost and speed. No respect is given to the production centres.

For the scaled-down and restructured domestic production centres, the sudden surge of work might even deprive businesses of their power. The convenience of apparel businesses is taking a toll on domestic production centres.

Domestic production centres began appealing their strengths, incorporating that unique Japanese sense of ‘bringing out the flavour’ into their materials through unique refinement and expression of nuances. Although there are many senior workers, the factories are committed. Their stubbornness actually fits in perfectly in the discussions with the designers. The materials born out of this are now spreading their wings toward the global market through collections.

To supplement their disadvantaged business strength and ability for information distribution, there are now also representatives who advocate the necessity for producers and people who can promote the materials. There are also businesses that sell rare organic fabric online. In order to motivate the exhausted production centres to become independent, it would be necessary to understand the new consumer needs, as well as creating a business system that does not rely on apparel businesses.

Meanwhile, young people are now sent one after another to receive onsite training. The problematic issue of the lack of successors now faces the next phase; core techniques are now being transferred onto young people. There is also now a firm ‘collaboration of techniques’ between potential production centres. That is to say, the 'points' that production centres once complained about which tended to go one-way are now being linked into a 'line'.

Young designers have finally noticed the importance of materials and are working with craftsmen to create samples through trial and error. However, it is still early to see the fruit. Turning all the setbacks up to now into profits will not be easy. The entire industry should pay attention to production centres and know rare techniques of Japan well. We should hold respect and say domestic production centres are at the global standard level.

Hiroshi Hosokawa

What is high quality textile? Expensive raw materials, or excellent presentation? The answer is in Izumi-otsu, Osaka. President Mr. Hosokawa tells us the advantages of Japanese textiles relating it to the issues concerning the fashion industry. Based on the company tradition since 1910, he now proposes revolutionary materials.

I don’t think this is exclusive to production centres. We hear that domestic production centres are exhausted due to foreign forces such as from China. But I think this is an industry-wide problem that includes the outsourcing of materials by domestic apparel businesses and the lack of interest in domestic materials from young designers.

"Japanese clients worry about competition from emerging countries like China, India and Korea. However, I have no intention of losing. Weaving machines are available everywhere in world, so if you can master the skills, you can make denim clothes. But nobody can copy what we have created." "First of all, it's the water. Here in Ibara City, Okayama-prefecture, we have a natural supply of drinkable well water. And we spend money on the water treatment plant to maintain the quality of our water. Our company conducts integrated production from dyeing to processing, so water management is vital. Dyeing quality is determined by the water quality. Not may people are aware of this fact." "Of course, I am confident in our product development. We monitor changes in the market, and commercialize products based on input from our American and European clients. It is important to listen carefully to the clients’ wishes in order to deliver exactly what they want. This illustrates the importance of having talented employees. You can't hope to succeed by simply buying a lot of weaving machines. The water management system mentioned earlier and our talented personnel are our strength."

"Exports account for 30% of our sales. We deal with most of the U.S. designer jeans brands. In the future, I would like to pursue growth in Europe, which currently does not have an adequate supply. At the Premiere Vision trade show in France, we received orders for samples from about 200 companies. I'm hoping that many of these will develop into new business."

At the end of the interview, Mr. Kuroki mentioned with a laugh that “Western brands have high expectations for Japanese makers.” The Bichu region, which includes Ibara City of Okayama-prefecture, has developed a textile industry known for cotton weaving and indigo dyeing since the mid Edo period. Based on developments since that time and the accumulated knowledge about textiles, the region seems destined to continue on as a center for denim production. Mr. Kuroki's confidence in this was shown in his smile.