Volume 6: Face the reality!

  
Naoto Taki

Many Japanese designers are concerned with the current situation. While there are those who proactively collaborates with production businesses, they still face the dilemma of a low volume of guaranteed deals. That being so, it is then vital for designers to improve what they are best at and set forth into the international world with fellow designers. Time will not wait for us, and so I wish to prompt for them to start their own actions.

The situation surrounding domestic production areas remains unchanged and is as severe as ever. However, the road to overseas expansion is widening by small measures. That expansion happens to be within Japan's field of pride - high quality. Instead of quantity, Japan pursues quality. On the other hand, companies with no rare technique to call of their own naturally get left behind and disappear. This past year alone saw many production businesses being forced to shut down.

Look to domestic production areas!
TexStyleDepots : Naoto Taki, CEO

The business convention Takumi Ten (Master Show) operated by TexStyleDepots turns the spotlight on medium- and small-sized material manufacturers, and bring together top grade domestic materials. In addition, the company also acts as a 'producer' to connect productions areas with designers. Mr. Taki, who has onsite knowledge in this field, has been one who began advocating the importance of domestic production areas from early on.


- What are the weaknesses of Japan's medium- and small-sized material manufacturers?

The intrinsic attractive qualities of materials are not fully conveyed to the apparel industry and designers. In a sense because there is a lack of producers, or bridging agents, who connect production areas and designers, and so, the current situation is that neither side can exchange information with the other. The technologies provided by domestic production areas are fantastic and not inferior to Europe in any way. In fact they are winning in that field. I do personally think that designers should make their own decisions on material selection. Recently, we can see some creations specialized in imported materials. I think it's great having material manufacturers that can make easy-to-understand proposals of what they are good at, while having designers who can pursue materials to be used so that both are within access. In some production areas they have begun using young people with high sensitivity. It appears that the current situation becomes to change.


- In the mean time, what about the original advantage of material manufacturers?

Medium- and small-sized material manufacturers are good at bringing out styles and tastes. By applying subtle feelings and processes to their products, they create fabrics desired by designers and the 'maisons.' Except for the high-tech materials that large enterprises (manufacturers of synthetics) specialize in, it is vital for medium- and small-sized manufacturers to have confidence in their own products if they wish to survive. The Takumi Ten operated by our company centers in on originality. To commercialize complicated processes and subtle feelings, and pass the products to designers. That's the forte of medium- and small-sized manufacturers.


Masao Yamashita
Reflux of materials
A-GIRL'S : Masao Yamashita, President

"Failure and success." A-Girl's, with its business centering on cut and sewn products, has always taken on new endeavors. The company began shifting its focus on the international market in the middle of the 1980s, having been shaken by the products and presentations from other nations at a fabric convention in Europe. In order to acquire international know-how, the company looked to French leading manufacturers for collaboration, with Mr. Yamashita himself presenting the company's booth at joint exhibitions. 'Although we've had failures, they were all invaluable experiences,' says the CEO with a smile.


- Export expanding on a scale worth several hundred million yen.

The company's sales overseas has expanded to about 500 million yen. However, the scale of its sales isn't of great importance. The vital concerns are the sales targets and the ability to maintain high-grade products. Business targets are high-end brands and boutiques. A separate division wholesales final products to brands like BARNEYS or Fred Segal. While it isn't easy to ensure profit making, the company has been able to acquire precious know-how in sales. There are even plans to establish branch stores in Paris in the future.


- Internationalization is the key.

In a time when domestic market (consumption) was large, there was no need for Japanese businesses to export. With consumptions dwindling, we face the inevitable need to export if Japanese apparels businesses are not placing orders any more. When doing so, there are a few important points to consider. First, it is vital to export such unique Japanese culture elements as the earnestness and definite response. In addition, it is possible for a reflux of products back into Japan when presenting products at shows like the Première Vision. With the reverse-import into Japan via presentations at influential shows overseas, it can help establish (Japanese buyers') recognition of the products. Through competing overseas, the company's staff has also gained more motivation, with their business sense better refined by making business deals with representatives from Gucci or CHANEL.