Japan DESIGN SOFTPOWER WEB POWERED BY JAPAN EXTERNAL TRADE ORGANIZATION
Volume 3: Artisan Denim
Isn't Japanese fashion somewhat underestimated? Mass-produced designs without a “face” to them may seem so Japanese, but creations with quality workmanship also fit the Japanese image. This kind of quality craftsmanship now receives high acclaim from both inside and outside the country. People are tired of mass-produced fashion at low prices; what they are now looking for is more originality.
For the past 35 years, Japanese designers have competed based on the reputation of the label “MADE IN JAPAN.” This is true for the design and concept of fashion, as well as textiles. Products completely made in Japan have won a great deal of respect and trust, and are expanding in leading shops worldwide. Japanese people are particularly suited for developing these kinds of products, given a reputation for both creativity and detailed craftsmanship that no one else can match. Such products can only result from the combined efforts of talented designers and skilled artisans.
You might be surprised to find one good example of this close at hand: denim. It is extremely rare in the industry to find another product for which such close attention is paid to the choice of material, manufacturing process, shape, and distribution. Beginning with U.S. designer jeans and followed by European luxury brand denim pants, foreign companies have adopted these denim materials made in Japan.
Western denim designers’ visits to Okayama and Hiroshima are now quite common. They are quite excited in emphasizing the uniqueness of the materials and the quality of the manufacturing.
Traditional Japanese indigo and plant dyeing are done by hand, and the finished product is slightly different in each case. As these variations in denim materials have caught the designers’ attention, the workmen work hard to fulfill their difficult requests to create real used-looking denim materials. One of their main advantages is the ability to combine both dyeing and manufacturing in the same region. Okayama and Hiroshima used to be where military uniforms were produced during the war. From that period of time, strict standards have been maintained, and that is thought to have led to the development of high-level production quality.
After the war, denim pants, which had been already popular in the U.S., arrived in Japan. The popularity of cotton fabrics at that time also helped the area to develop fully into a center for denim production. Since then, “OKAYAMA” has been a sign for the world to see the productivity of the world’s top denim manufacturer and the creative skills of the Japanese people.
Interview [TATSUSHI KUROKI]
"It's because there are certain techniques that only exist in Japan." It is evident that their "artisan skills" will only continue to improve the quality of Japanese denim even more..
KUROKI provides the denim material for high-end brands, and is expanding its business in Western countries. It is probably already common knowledge that the company is making deals with luxury brands and American designer jeans companies. But, why did it have to be denim production? Why look to the West for expansion? Company president Tatsushi Kuroki emphasizes the company's "background of production and techniques that nobody can copy."
"Japanese clients worry about competition from emerging countries like China, India and Korea. However, I have no intention of losing. Weaving machines are available everywhere in world, so if you can master the skills, you can make denim clothes. But nobody can copy what we have created." "First of all, it's the water. Here in Ibara City, Okayama-prefecture, we have a natural supply of drinkable well water. And we spend money on the water treatment plant to maintain the quality of our water. Our company conducts integrated production from dyeing to processing, so water management is vital. Dyeing quality is determined by the water quality. Not may people are aware of this fact." "Of course, I am confident in our product development. We monitor changes in the market, and commercialize products based on input from our American and European clients. It is important to listen carefully to the clients’ wishes in order to deliver exactly what they want. This illustrates the importance of having talented employees. You can't hope to succeed by simply buying a lot of weaving machines. The water management system mentioned earlier and our talented personnel are our strength."
"Exports account for 30% of our sales. We deal with most of the U.S. designer jeans brands. In the future, I would like to pursue growth in Europe, which currently does not have an adequate supply. At the Premiere Vision trade show in France, we received orders for samples from about 200 companies. I'm hoping that many of these will develop into new business."
At the end of the interview, Mr. Kuroki mentioned with a laugh that “Western brands have high expectations for Japanese makers.” The Bichu region, which includes Ibara City of Okayama-prefecture, has developed a textile industry known for cotton weaving and indigo dyeing since the mid Edo period. Based on developments since that time and the accumulated knowledge about textiles, the region seems destined to continue on as a center for denim production. Mr. Kuroki's confidence in this was shown in his smile.












