Flavors of Japan

Bringing a New Culinary Lexicon to the American Palate:
First-time, Returning Exhibitors Attract Crowds at International Food Show's Japan Pavilion

After introducing his matsugae kelp at the Japan Pavilion of the International Restaurant and Foodservice Show in New York last year, Kazutoshi Kojima of Matsumaeya Ltd. was determined to return this year with the necessary arsenal to hook an American audience on his product: a recipe that would tantalize the Western palate while showcasing an ingredient that rarely makes a culinary appearance outside Japan.

The winner? A Matsugae cream cheese party dip served on crackers. Ritz crackers.

And Kojima was not alone. Whereas last year's debut of the Japan Pavilion at the show brought many authentic and artisanal Japanese food products to the United States for the first time and was well received by chefs and consumers alike, some vendors returned to Japan with the nagging feeling that it wasn't enough simply to display these products – they had to show how these ingredients could be used locally in the States in ways that made sense to American taste buds.

Just as Kojima experimented with his cream cheese party dip, Nobutarou Asai, president of Maruya Hatcho Miso Co., went about creating an original recipe for a new miso sauce he will now sell exclusively here in New York. First International Corporation developed a surefire hit: a health smoothie employing mangos, bananas and limes along with its nagaimo yams, a difficult-to-grow delicacy not available in the U.S. And Hiramatsu Seafoods Co. hired Aquavit chef Johan Svensson to demonstrate how to use tsukudani (a style of preserved fish) and washugyu oxtail in a reinterpretation of the classic steak with anchovy butter.

"People are just getting to know our product,” said Kohtaro Sakai of Hiramatsu Seafoods. "Sushi and sake have a real history in Japan, and people all over the world accept that culture. But there are other products, too, with a real history, and they are worth trying.”

"We really have merged two worlds together, which is much more interesting than anything else,” agreed chef Svensson, adding that it is imperative that Western chefs learn how to incorporate often-delicate and subtle Japanese food products in a way that heightens the overall dish, rather than using them simply for fusion's sake. "There is a lot of tradition and pride in these ingredients. You must use them without destroying that.”

Organized by the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries of Japan and operated by the Japan External Trade Organization (JETRO), this year's Pavilion, which ran from March 9 through March 11, provided a one-stop shop for an American audience of culinary professionals and consumers to experience some of Japan's finest regional ingredients. Sixteen companies in total displayed specialties ranging from organic green tea and sweet, in-season strawberries lovingly cushioned in air pillows to preserve their quality to fluffy Suzu salt hand-harvested from the Sea of Japan and a miso paste produced traditionally since 1337.

Everywhere there were recipes, samples and product-savvy representatives ready to espouse the highlights of their offerings, such as the health benefits of natto, a dried soybean snack that gives bar nuts a run for their money in taste and, according to some reports, is believed to help reduce blood clots and aid in the prevention of osteoporosis and cancer and is also considered to be a natural antibiotic.

Pastry chef Alina Eisenhauer, who owns Sweet, a dessert bar in Worcester, Mass., said she welcomed the opportunity to sample new Japanese ingredients and to scope out new vendors of ingredients she already uses.

"I incorporate a lot of savory ingredients in my pastry,” she said, picking up samples of powdered green tea, "and a lot of Japanese ingredients translate very well to savory, like ginger, some of the micro-greens and even soy sauce.” Eisenhauer said she would use the green tea in sorbets, ice cream and pastry. Likewise, she would be using a wasabi sample in chocolate. "Coming here is a wonderful opportunity to try something new.”

JETRO also participated in the Natural Products Expo West in Anaheim, Calif., the week after, bringing four select Japanese food producers to the U.S. for the first time alongside five established companies. Kristoffer Miller, senior assistant in the Los Angeles JETRO office, said he and his colleagues were very happy with the level of interest these companies attracted and would be expanding the Japan presence next year. "A lot of the attendees said they not only found it interesting and informative, they're also looking for exactly these kinds of products.”